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Most commonly, weapons are sealed with several coats of liquid latex. Sealing is required to give the weapons a tough and damage resistant finish, but also to let it look good.

Liquid latex can be pigmented with acrylic paints, so the sealing also functions as the painting/colouration of the weapon. Though it’s not strictly necessary, latex really needs a final sealing with a transparent flexible top coating, typically Isoflex Special Primer in the UK (designed as a roof repair product).

However, about 6 years ago I went over to using Plastidip instead of latex as my coating material. For a while, I used both, but now I use Plastidip exclusively.

Plastidip was originally designed as a liquid rubber coating for tool handles. It is an air drying liquid rubber and is solvent based, whereas liquid latex is ammonia and water based.

 

  Pros and Cons

 

Pros:

Drying time – this is probably the largest single reason I went over to using Plastidip. Living in a very wet and cold climate, the drying time for non-assisted latex, particularly where it pooled, was very long for me. Normally, I’d only be able to paint 2-3 coats a day, if I was around at the right time to be able to space those coats out. Plastidip dries much faster as it’s solvent based, and is a lot less effected by the moisture content of the air. Even if pooling, I’d expect Plastidip to be ready to recoat in 1 hour, often it is ready to recoat almost as soon as the previous coat is done. This means, if I need to, I can finish sealing and painting a weapon in a day rather than the week it would take me with latex.

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With the basic shape of the axe done (part 1 & part 2), it’s now a matter of giving the weapons some style and finish. As a lot of these stages involve removing material, make sure you don’t remove too much foam or your weapon will fail safety checking. Limits will depend on your system -check with a referee/marshal/game-runner.

 

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Originally Published: 20 April 2016 (re-written from drafts)

I've had this base for a LRP-axe kicking around for years. Originally, it was for a historic dark-ages setting, but I figure, these days, I'll get more use out of it if I turn it into a wasteland-warrior's trusty mutant stopper.

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 In part 1 (link) we went through building up the blank-core for the weapon and a general shaped foam-blank for the body.

Originally, this was a dark-ages style bearded axe, and I hadn't really wanted to remake the head so I’d left that as it was. I do however want to make is more suitable for a post-apocalyptic wasteland role, so I want to gruff it up and make it looks more like it’s been ‘improved’ for combat. I'm thinking a bit of a basic hand-guard for the main hand, some reinforcement for the shaft and maybe ‘welding’ some big nuts onto the back of the blade to make it look a bit heavier and like it has maybe been modified to act a bit like an axe-mace cross-over.

 

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